SPC Click Tool list

1. The Foundation: Sub-floor Preparation

Before any flooring is laid, the sub-floor must be perfectly flat and clean. This is the crucial first step.

Remove any existing flooring and ensure the sub-floor is clean, dry, and level. Concrete: Must be thoroughly dry; use a moisture meter to confirm, and install a damp-proof membrane (DPM) to prevent buckling. Many modern underlays feature integrated DPMs. For uneven joisted floors, you can install plywood to create a stable, level base. Use tongue & groove plywood or oriented strand board (OSB).

Countersink all screw or nail heads to protect the underlay, remove old adhesives, and vacuum thoroughly to clear debris.

2. Planning the layout

Decide the direction in which the boards will be laid before installation begins. To make a room appear larger, especially in small rooms or hallways, it is recommended to lay the boards parallel to the longest wall or dimension of the room.

Carefully measure the room to check for square corners and calculate the width of the final row of boards. If the last row will be less than 50 mm wide (excluding the groove), trim the first row accordingly to ensure a balanced appearance.

An expansion gap of at least 6-8 mm must be maintained around the perimeter of the room and around all fixed or built-in objects. For larger rooms, we recommend installing an expansion joint of 8 mm every 6 metres. For a professional finish remove existing skirting boards before installation and refit them above the flooring once the flooring is complete to hide the expansion gap.

3. Starting the first row

Begin laying boards from the left side of the starting wall and work toward the right. The groove side of the board should face the starting wall.

Place spacer wedges (minimum 8 mm) between the wall and the boards along both the short and long edges. Always position a spacer wedge at each board connection point.

Connect the groove side of the new board to the tongue side of the previous board, then gently lower it until the joint locks into place. Ensure all boards remain straight and aligned. Continue laying the remaining boards in the first row. An off-cut and mallet can be used to tap joints into place.

5. Cutting the boards

Use a jigsaw, or use a sharp utility knife and straight edge or carpenter’s square. Score the surface firmly. Snap the board cleanly along the scored line. The off-cut from the final board in the first row can be used to begin the second row, provided it is longer than 20 cm. Ensure end joints are staggered by at least 20 cm between rows.

6. Laying additional rows

Lay the long edge of the first board in the second row, again using an 8 mm spacer wedge at the wall. The first two rows must be perfectly straight and square, as any inaccuracy will affect the alignment of the entire floor. Continue installing row by row from left to right.

7. Finishing the floor

After installation is complete:

• Remove all spacer wedges.
• Install threshold strips where required.
• Do not fix threshold strips directly to the flooring.
• Re-fit mouldings or skirting boards. Skirting boards or mouldings must be large enough to fully cover the required 6-8 mm expansion gap.
• Never attach skirting boards or mouldings directly to the floor covering. Always fix them to the wall.

SPC Click LVT Herringbone Guide

Herringbone installation differs slightly to standard plank installation because it requires perfect geometric alignment to maintain the pattern. While standard planks are installed in straight rows, herringbone relies on precise intersection points.

1. Mark the Centre Line

Begin by measuring the longest wall, or the direction you’ve chosen for the installation and mark the midpoint to establish the centre of the room. Snap a chalk line through this point to create your main guide line, as the first run of planks will be aligned from here.

For greater accuracy, it can also help to create additional reference lines. A perpendicular guide line will ensure the layout stays perfectly square at 90 degrees, while parallel guide lines can be used to map out the edges of each section as the pattern develops.

Before installation begins, position spacer wedges around the perimeter of the room to maintain the required expansion gap. A minimum gap of 2 mm is recommended, although when installing over underfloor heating, a gap of at least 5 mm should be allowed.

2. Start the Pattern

Separate your A and B planks into separate piles. Align the planks so that they lie on the centre line, as shown in the diagram. Lay the first planks carefully to create the initial herringbone V-shape. This first section is the most important part of the installation.

3. Build Outward

Work outward from the centre of the room, connecting each plank carefully while maintaining perfect alignment. Regularly check that the pattern remains straight and centred.

4. Cut Around the Perimeter

As you approach the walls, measure and trim each plank individually to follow the room shape while maintaining the herringbone pattern.

5. Maintain Expansion Gaps

Install spacers around the perimeter to maintain the required expansion gap, just as you would with standard plank flooring.

Important Recommendation

Because herringbone flooring requires such high geometric accuracy, it is strongly recommended to dry-lay several rows first before beginning full installation.

For dryback (glue-down) Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT), the preparation process is similar to floating floor installation; however, the installation method itself is slightly different.

Dryback LVT Tool list

Basics

• Tape measure and pencil.
• Heavy-duty utility knife & plenty of fresh blades.
• Steel straight edge / drywall square: To guide your utility knife safely for perfectly straight perimeter cuts.
• Damp rag: To wipe up any wet adhesive that inevitably squeezes up through the seams before it dries.
• Notched trowel: (Square or V-notched, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions).

Essentials

• Premium resilient flooring adhesive: Specifically rated for LVT.
• 100 lb three-section floor roller: Non-negotiable for a professional finish. It rolls over the newly laid tiles to break down the adhesive ridges and guarantees 100% glue transfer to the back of the tile.
• Hand roller: For rolling tight corners, edges, and closet spaces where the big roller won’t fit.

1. Dryback Sub-floor Preparation

Achieving a perfectly smooth sub-floor is essential. Glue-down LVT requires an even higher standard of floor preparation than floating floors because any imperfections beneath the adhesive can eventually show through the surface of the tile - a process commonly known as “telegraphing”.

Dryback LVT can be installed over most existing hard surface floors, provided the existing surface is completely dry, stable, and capable of being smoothed to the required standard.

Concrete Sub-floors

For concrete floors, a rapid-setting self-levelling compound should be applied where necessary to create a perfectly smooth and even surface before adhesive installation begins.

Ceramic Tile Sub-floors

Existing ceramic tiles may also be levelled using a suitable smoothing compound to eliminate grout lines and uneven areas.

Timber Sub-floors

For timber floors, plywood or OSB boards may be used, provided they are: Smooth and flat, securely fixed, free from deflection or movement and structurally sound. Any movement within the sub-floor must be eliminated before installation.

Adhesive Recommendations

Always follow the adhesive manufacturer’s installation guidelines and recommendations. Only use a specialist adhesive specifically designed for LVT flooring. The adhesive must be allowed to become touch dry before the planks or tiles are installed.
A wet-lay method must not be used.

2. Setting Out the Floor

Position the first row parallel to the longest wall in the room. Snap a chalk line approximately 197 mm (7¾ inches) from the starting wall to establish the first working line.

3. Dry Lay a Test Row

Dry lay a double row of planks along the chalk line. Check that the layout is perfectly straight, the room is square and no perimeter gaps exceed the width of the skirting boards or mouldings.
If required, reposition the chalk line. Some planks near uneven walls may require trimming to follow wall contours.

4. Stagger the Planks

Stagger the plank joints in the test rows to create a natural appearance and ensure the rows remain perfectly aligned. Avoid lining up end joints between adjacent rows.

5. Apply the Adhesive

Use only the adhesive and trowel recommended by the adhesive manufacturer. The correct notched trowel is essential, as it controls the exact amount of adhesive applied to the sub-floor. Spread the adhesive evenly across the floor, creating consistent adhesive ridges.

Allow the adhesive to become tacky before installing the flooring.

6. Install the Planks

Carefully position each plank into the adhesive. Unlike click systems, glue-down LVT relies entirely on the adhesive bond, so accurate placement is essential. Once the plank touches the adhesive, repositioning may be difficult.

Inspect each row during installation to ensure that the joints are tight, that alignment is correct and there are no visible gaps.

7. Cutting the Planks

Standard cuts can be made using a utility knife and straight edge, or a guillotine-style cutter. Score the surface firmly and snap the plank cleanly along the cut line. For curves, corners, or irregular shapes, use a coping saw or jigsaw. One advantage of gluedown LVT is that most cuts can be completed quietly and dust-free without power saws.

8. Cleaning During Installation

Clean any adhesive residue or bleed-through immediately using adhesive remover, or mineral spirits (if approved by the adhesive manufacturer). Do not allow adhesive to dry on the surface of the flooring

9. Rolling the Floor

This is one of the most important stages of installation. Roll the flooring, as you go. The flooring must not remain unrolled in the adhesive for longer than 30 minutes. Ideally, use a heavy-duty 100 lb (45 kg), threesection steel roller, alternatively, a hand roller can be used. Apply firm pressure to ensure full adhesive transfer and a permanent bond.

10 Finishing the Installation

Allow the adhesive to dry for 24 hours before placing furniture or cleaning your floor. To remove dried adhesive, soften it with hot water and gently lift off using a soft brush or cloth. Never use solvent or harsh chemicals.

Once installation is complete and the adhesive has cured, cover all perimeter expansion gaps using suitable skirting boards, mouldings, or trim. In areas exposed to moisture, such as kitchens or bathrooms, use a flexible waterproof sealant where appropriate. Ensure all finishing trims are fixed to the wall or sub-floor - never directly to the flooring itself.

Accessories

Where your flooring adjoins existing flooring, we have a range of door bars, ramps and Scotia beading to complete the finish. You’ll find the perfect match in our accessories pages.

If you would rather enlist the help of a professional rather than tackle fitting yourself, you can search Yell.com, NICF (National Institute of Carpet and Floorlayers) or any number of other trusted sites. They often have a star rating system and reviews to help you find a highly-rated fitter in your area.

These instructions are intended as a rough guide only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions and guidelines for the most comprehensive fitting information.

Download a .pdf of this complete guide