A quick guide to fitting engineered wood flooring
Installation Methods
You’ve got three ways to install engineered flooring, and the best choice depends on your joint system, what shape your subfloor is in, and your own preferences.
Floating Floor Installation
Floating floors connect the boards to each other instead of sticking them directly to the subfloor. This works best for click-lock flooring, but you can also install tongue-and-groove boards this way if you use adhesive between the joints. Either way, make sure you use a good underlay - and actually prepare it well before you start.
Secret Nailing Installation
With secret nailing, you drive nails through the tongue of each board so they’re hidden and the floor stays firmly in place. You need tongue-and-groove boards for this - click-fit systems won’t work. Installers like this method because it gives you a sturdy, solid floor. If your subfloor is concrete, you’ll have to put down a timber layer first, since you can’t nail directly into concrete.
Glue-Down Installation
Glue-down means you put adhesive directly onto the subfloor with a trowel and lay the boards right into the glue. This is usually the top pick for tongue-and-groove floors, not click-fit (with one exception - if you’re installing click-fit over underfloor heating, glue helps keep things from moving and creaking when temperatures change).
Check the Flooring
When the flooring arrives, open one box and check it over. Wood is always unique, so expect colour and grain differences - not just within one pack, but between boxes. For a more even look, mix boards from different packs as you install them.
Let the Flooring Acclimatise
Give the boards at least 48 hours in the same room they’ll be installed in. This gives them time to adjust and helps prevent problems like expansion or shrinkage later.
Stack the packs flat. Either pile them up or lay them out evenly. Leave the boards in their packaging but open the ends to let air flow in. Keep the room between 16°C - 27°C, and don’t let moisture or the elements get to the flooring.
If you’re using underfloor heating, slowly increase the temperature so the boards can get used to it. Follow your heating system’s guidelines for this part.
Get the Subfloor Ready
Before you do anything, rip out the old flooring and make sure the subfloor is clean, dry, level, and solid. Concrete and timber work best. Always check moisture levels with a meter - don’t guess.
If you’re going over joists, add plywood on top for stability. How thick the plywood needs to be depends on the distance between joists:
- 40.6cm–48.6cm apart: use 19mm plywood
- 48.7cm–60.8cm apart: use 19–22mm plywood
- 60.9cm or more: go with 22–28mm plywood
If your subfloor is concrete, make sure it’s totally dry before you start. Add a damp-proof membrane to stop any moisture from reaching the floorboards. Lots of underlays come with this built in.
Sink all screws and nails below the surface to protect your underlay. Get rid of any old glue, then vacuum up any dust or leftovers. Lay the underlay in the same direction as the boards and tape the joins to keep it secure.
Plan Your Layout
Unpack some boards and get a feel for the different patterns and colours. Pick out your favourite planks for spots that will be in plain view, and blend the rest evenly through the room for a natural look.
Boards you don’t like as much can go where you need to make cuts or in spots that will sit under furniture.
Think about which way the boards will run. Usually, laying them parallel to the longest wall looks best. In square rooms, you might want to follow the light or point the boards toward the entrance.
If your packs have fixed lengths, look for the starter board - this helps you stagger the boards for a natural finish. With random-length boards, mix them up to break up the pattern.
Final Tip
Install your new floor as the last part of your renovation. This way, you reduce the risk of damage from other work. Start at the top of the room and work your way down. Put in all the kitchen units, including islands, before you lay the flooring. For heavy furniture, glue-down installation adds more stability.
Floating Floor Installation Guide
- Figure out the width of the last row before you get started. Divide the room width by the board width and trim the first row if required, so that the last row is at least 60mm wide.
- Start in the corner along the longest wall with the tongue facing the wall. Keep that first row straight—it sets the tone for the whole floor.
- Pop spacers in along the edges for a 10–12mm expansion gap. This lets the floor shift with temperature changes.
- If you’re using click-fit boards, just snap them together. Tongue-and-groove? Use glue between the grooves. Use a tapping block and rubber mallet to snug the boards in tight.
- Stagger the joints between rows to make it all look more natural.
- Don’t pull out the spacers until you finish, so you keep the expansion gap even all around.
- The last row’s a bit trickier. You may need a pull bar and mallet to get it flush.
Glue-Down Installation Guide
- First, measure the room and figure out the last row’s width. Adjust the first row as needed so you don’t end up with a skinny strip.
- Spread adhesive about a meter out from the longest wall and set the first row with the tongue toward the wall. Get it perfectly straight.
- Use spacers for your expansion gap (10–12mm again).
- Keep laying boards, spreading more glue about a meter at a time, and stagger your joints for a nicer look.
- Keep spacers in place until the whole floor’s laid.
- The final row can be tight. Use your pull bar and mallet for this.
- When you’re done, let the floor sit for 24 hours before you walk on it or bring in furniture.
Secret Nailing Installation Guide
- Measure your space and plan for the last row. Trim the first row if the math doesn’t work out.
- Start at the longest wall with the groove side to the wall and keep that first line straight.
- Spacers again, 10–12mm around the edges.
- Surface-nail the first row into the wooden subfloor. Then, lay the rest of your boards and nail through the tongue using a floor nailer or Tongue-Tite screws. These get hidden once the next row’s in place.
- Stagger your joints from row to row.
- Don’t forget your spacers. Stick with that gap all the way around.
- That last row is always a challenge; the pull bar and mallet help here. If the edge is too tight for tools, you can surface-nail as needed.
Finishing Touches
Around pipes: Mark the spot on your board, drill a hole, and make two angled saw cuts from the edge to the hole. Fit the board in, then glue the wedge piece back behind the pipe. Easy.
For door frames, take the door off its hinges. Use a piece of flooring and a threshold bar to check clearance under the architrave. If the architrave’s too low, cut off what you need with a saw and chisel so the boards can slide underneath. Adjust the door height if needed.
For a seamless look, use matching beading and thresholds to cover gaps and tidy up the edges. And don’t nail trims to the floor itself; you want the boards to have room to move.
Save any leftover boards or offcuts, they’re handy for repairs. If you’ve left a gap too wide for skirting or moulding to cover, cut thin strips from any spare boards and glue them in for a neat, finished look.
We’d love to see your finished floor! So, make sure you take plenty of pictures and post them online and tag us at:
@onlinecarpets 
@onlinecarpetsuk Any Questions?
If you have any questions about your flooring, we’re available 7-days-a-week. Don’t hesitate to get in touch with our Call Centre via live chat, or call us on 0800 9705 705, or email us at info@onlinecarpets.co.uk
Let someone else do the work
If you would rather enlist the help of a professional rather than tackle fitting yourself, you can search Yell.com, NICF (National Institute of Carpet and Floorlayers) or any number of other trusted sites. They often have a star rating system and reviews to help you find a highly-rated fitter in your area.
These instructions are intended as a rough guide only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions and guidelines for the most comprehensive fitting information.